Had 4 friends in town. Two of them, New York city firemen had to catch a flight back to the states on Wednesday. There was a much-hyped swell hitting Thursday and Friday. We decided the timing would be perfect to hit a spot up north.
Sure enough, Thursday morning was firing. Lots of lengthy tube rides on tap, and perfectly tapered lips. On the best waves, you could get a barrel or two and hit the lip up to 10 times or until your legs got tired. This is a fickle spot, and it needs the right ingredients. I’m not gonna tell you where it is, but it really gets epic here.
On Thursday, Mikala and Daniel Jones along with some other pros were KILLING it. The waves were so perfect that Daniel paddled out on one of those very thin, wooden boards without a fin that Machado and Rasta have been riding. It was a treat to see. The board barely floated him while waiting for waves, but when he took off he’d achieve perfect trim across the face of the waves on such a simple craft. Thursday was better than Friday, and I only took the camera on the boat on Friday. Murphy’s law, right?