April 27th, 10:30 am
Just got in from a fun session at Popoyo. Walking toward the break around 8 am, a lot of people were exiting the water, and two vehicles from Popoyo Surf Lodge were on the beach gearing up for a session. Over the next couple hours, the crowd averaged around 4-8 people. J.J. paddled out and lit up the head high surf on a 5’5″ with an electric and radical approach. Having mastered all the local breaks, it’s always inspiring to watch him surf, as he spontaneously combines a full bag of tricks with spicy, old-school power surfing. He relayed the good news that the stiff offshores were to diminish in a couple days, with light offshores and glassy conditions dominating thereafter. This April, the winds have been strong. The surf has maintained great form, but lighter offshores will be welcome. Other news is that the long-range forecast charts show a huge purple, blob forming in the Pacific, signifying the biggest swell of the year as of yet hitting our coast around May 8th.
Back to this morning’s conditions. It’s a new moon right now, and the tidal ranges are exteme. The falling tide continued to remove the water from the reef, and your feet would occasionally touch the rocky bottom while waiting for waves. A lot of sessions at Popoyo, a light current runs from south to north, making it necessary to paddle to sit deep on the peak. Today, with the extreme low tide sucking off the reef, the current would carry you back to the take-off spot. You would barely even have to paddle back out after catching a wave. The lefts were hugging the northern bowl section of the reef, making it possible to catch a lot of fun, long waves. The fun waves and light crowd was refreshing, after surfing a session last night at poor, mushy, high-tide Santana with a large crowd. Ok, stay tuned friends and surfers. More good things are on the way, and I’m gonna be uploading some more photos of the surf when I get to a decent internet connection.